EARLY CHAPTER

 

The natural beauty and abundance of timber in Klamath and Jackson counties attracted many settlers during the late 1800s and early 1900s.

Butte Falls, a community of slightly over 400 people, is the smallest incorporated city in Jackson County. The town gets its name from Big Butte Creek Falls, pictured here. (photo: Gary Halvorson, Oregon State Archives)

Klamath natives in dugout canoes (circa 1870-1900).

From the Takelma and Klamath Indians to the Fredenburg and More Families… To understand the story of JRL Ranch is to first understand the people who have called this land home. For centuries, the Native American Takelma and Klamath tribes lived on this land; they passed through, hunted large game, and often camped here during winter months.  In 1864, the Fredenburg family homesteaded this quarter section of land (160 acres) with another 100 acres approximately three miles downstream of Butte Creek. These ranches were aptly named The Fredenburg Ranch (present day JRL Ranch) and Lower Fredenburg Ranch. Benjamin (Ben) Fredenburg (born in 1864 while his family was traveling west on the Oregon Trail); his wife Letetia; and their three children, Gertrude, Edith, and Benjamin Theadore (Ted), lived on the main Fredenburg Ranch. Over the next few decades, the Fredenburgs gradually built barns, outbuildings, and a large home in the area where the JRL main house and buildings are currently located. Through the late 1800s, the Fredenburgs and Klamath and Takelma Indians peacefully coexisted on this land. 

In early years, the Fredenburgs cleared patches of forest to establish the present-day grazing pastures for their cattle.  Rock piles that are present at the edges of the fields were placed in these locations in an early effort to create clean and efficient grazing areas. The Fredenburgs also established approximately 5 miles of irrigation ditches to convey water from the Butte Creek watershed to the ranch so they could flood-irrigate their fields through the summer months.  The runoff from these irrigation ditches also served as the main water source for grazing livestock. The Fredenburgs, with the help of Chinese laborers, established the ditches and built water diversions, fences, and other ranch infrastructure. The Fredenburgs used grazing provisions that allowed them to turn out their cattle onto adjacent lands to graze throughout the summer, which gave them the opportunity to cultivate grass hay for the long winters. The grazing and water rights that the Fredenburg family established over 100 years ago are still in use today. 

Letetia Fredenburg passed away in 1935, followed by Ben Fredenburg in 1940. The ranch passed to their son Ted who had married Naomi Van Groos, one of the first women to earn a college degree from Pacific University–a prominent Pacific Northwest institution. Naomi Fredenburg, born in 1903, moved to southern Oregon to teach in the Butte Falls School District which supported a growing and bustling logging town of 3,000 residents on the banks of Butte Creek.  Ted and Naomi had a son, Dwight, in 1936. Ted and Naomi continued to operate the Fredenburg Ranch while Naomi taught in the Butte Falls School District. Ted passed away in 1964. Dwight Fredenburg worked in the southern Oregon logging industry upon graduation from Butte Falls High School in the 1950s. Naomi continued to teach in the Butte Falls School District until her retirement. Given her age, wish for true retirement, and a lack of interest in the ranch from her family, Naomi decided to sell the main ranch. She then purchased a home in Butte Falls where she lived until her death in 1997, at the age of 94.   

In 1975, Bill and Rosie More purchased the main ranch from Naomi Fredenburg and raised their two young daughters there while juggling other careers. The Mores owned and managed the Fredenburg Ranch until 1983. 


The Lozano family

 

Construction of the JRL Ranch hay barn via a traditional “barn raising” 1987.

Bob haying the field to prepare feed for the ranch’s livestock.

Operating a working cattle ranch means adopting the cowboy lifestyle. Bob makes a roping run during a calf branding session.

Robert (Bob) and Judy Lozano grew up in California’s Santa Clara Valley (today known as the Silicon Valley); Bob in Palo Alto and Judy in Los Gatos.  Both grew up in families that had agricultural roots. Bob and Judy were both high school art teachers and were well connected within the arts community in the San Francisco Bay Area. Bob and Judy were well known for their adventurous and daring spirits – they traveled extensively, were avid alpine skiers, and were always up for adventures in remote places. Bob and Judy purchased 7 acres in the Santa Cruz Mountains outside of Los Gatos in 1971 and built a home on the property in 1972 which was awarded many architectural design awards. In 1975 they welcomed their oldest daughter Sarah, and in 1977 they welcomed their youngest daughter, Mandy. Driven by their love for the outdoors, artistic nature, and interest in having second careers away from teaching, Bob and Judy began the search for a ranch to purchase in the mid-1970s. This search led them to Nevada, Oregon, Wyoming, Colorado, Washington, and Montana. Drawn to the ideal climate of the western slope of the Cascade Mountains, Bob and Judy zeroed in on southwest Oregon as their potential ranching destination. They further found that the foothill areas outside of Medford and Ashland met their needs of proximity to larger communities and to friends and family in the San Francisco Bay Area, and it was a true rural environment in which to raise their children. In 1982, Bob visited the Butte Falls area and left his business card with every ranch owner that would talk with him. In 1983, Bill and Rosie More called Bob and told him that they were ready to sell their ranch. The Lozanos purchased the Fredenburg Ranch in 1983.  In the summer of 1985, Bob retired from teaching at Los Gatos High School, and the Lozano family gathered all their animals and belongings, moved to Oregon, and renamed the ranch “JRL Ranch” in honor of Judy and Robert Lozano and their young family.

By 1985, the ranch was in much need of investment and a management reset.  Years of drought coupled with lack of consistent grazing management and infrastructure investment had taken its toll. The buildings were in disrepair, the pastures were hardly productive, and the irrigation infrastructure had long stopped working. However, the hard work and sweat equity that the ranch needed did not intimidate the Lozanos. Sarah (10) and Mandy (8) learned first-hand that a job gets done only when everyone helps, and only when a job is done and the animals are put away and fed do they get to stop and enjoy the fruits of their labor. This motto played out while the Lozanos worked to improve the ranch. 

Their first job was to repair all of the irrigation infrastructure so that it worked properly. The Lozanos spent the majority of their first summer on the ranch  undertaking this immense effort. As each year went by, the Lozanos chose a major project that would help them reach their goal of a fully-functioning, economically-viable ranch where they could raise quality beef in a sustainable manner. By 1990, they had constructed the hay barn, expanded the garage/work-shop, rebuilt all of the corrals and working pens, reconstructed all of the fences, invested in a beautiful and productive garden and landscaped yard area, and purchased several key pieces of farm and ranch equipment.


Ranch house & bunkhouse

 

The bunkhouse was where the Lozano family lived while renovations were completed on the main ranch house.

The main ranch house construction was completed in 1991, and offers an open floorplan that maximizes views, sunlight, and energy efficiency.

Overview of the JRL homestead, with the studio on the left, and the main ranch house on the right. The bunkhouse is hidden from view by mature conifers.

The early chapter of the ranch was characterized by many challenges – severe winters, wildfires, and predation of livestock by wildlife.  In the 1930s, the main ranch house was destroyed in a fire. The Fredenburgs did not have the resources to rebuild, so they purchased a single-walled surplus outbuilding from the former State of Oregon Fish Hatchery that was approximately 1.5 miles away. They relocated this “house” by horse-drawn skids to the ranch. This served as their home for over a decade. This home was approximately 400 square feet and was not insulated. In 1953, the Fredenburgs built an 800-square-foot two-bedroom, one-bath home on the site of the present-day main house. The house plans were obtained from the State of Oregon for a minimal fee and had no bearing on the property or home site. In the late 1970s, the Mores added an additional 800-square-foot room to the back of the house that served as their art studio. When the Lozanos initially moved to the ranch in 1985, Judy used this studio for her graphic design business. 

By 1990, all the animals’ needs had been taken care of, so the Lozanos turned their attention to the primary residence, which was growing tight with two teenage daughters, 800 square feet, and one bathroom. To make sure that Judy’s graphic design business could continue uninterrupted, the Lozanos first built a new, free-standing art studio. This studio was constructed replaced an old woodshed that was teetering on its side and had reached the end of its life. The studio was designed with large expanses of windows to take advantage of the ideal southern exposure for the idyllic views of the property and to reduce the cost of lighting and heating. The east side of the studio doubles as a woodshed and a storage unit for the photovoltaic batteries that store excess power generated by solar panels. 

Because renovating the house would take nearly a year, the Lozanos constructed a “bunk house” above the three-car garage to serve as the living quarters while the main house was being remodeled. Bob and Judy’s design sense always got the best of them, and they incorporated quite a bit of historic charm to the bunk house, such as an antique oven and stove, antique wood-burning stove, and a cupula to maximize summer breezes, to name just a few. The layout was inspiring and took advantage of the view, light, and cross-ventilating breezes; they added four functioning bunks, closets, and a bathroom. The Lozanos lived in the bunk house for the majority of 1991. When they moved out of the bunkhouse and into the newly renovated main house, the bunk house became a true guest house and a storage space for the Lozano’s extensive book and western art and tack collection.   

The main house consisted of the Fredenburgs' 800-square-foot, east-west facing home and the additional 800 square foot north-south rectangle that was added in the late 1970s. The Lozanos worked with a local homebuilder to remodel the structure utilizing the existing foundation and framework of the existing home. As with their award-winning Santa Cruz Mountains home, the Lozanos were decades ahead of their time and took advantage of an open floorplan, a single great room, ample light, radiant heating made possible by the extensive south-facing windows, and the breathtaking views available from the home site. The creative use of space, vaulted ceilings, and open floorplan made the most of the 1,600 square foot home. Many of the walls were designed with particular pieces of artwork in mind.   

The ranch has never been connected to the electric grid; instead, it has always existed on a self-contained, diesel, generator-run power system. Upon completion of the home remodel in 1991, the Lozanos took advantage of the southern exposure and ample sun that is present in southwestern Oregon for much of the year and installed solar panels on both the main house and studio. This highly efficient system stores excess energy in a bank of photovoltaic batteries. The diesel-powered generator is used as a back-up power source. All appliances are propane-based to conserve energy.


A focus on sustainability

 

Happy grass-fed cows make for delicious tasting beef!

Proper care and management of the forest on the ranch is important to pass on to future generations.

The challenges of operating a working ranch in an ever-changing environment did not deter the Lozano family from learning and applying land management and conservation best practices.

In the early years, the Lozanos battled irrigation water fluctuations and invasive grasses that were spurred by periods of drought. Being life-long educators and learners, the Lozanos took advantage of Oregon State Extension and Jackson County Soil and Water Conservation research and local assistance grant programs. The 5-acre pasture at the south end of the ranch consisted of a bog overrun by invasive bull thistle. The Lozanos fenced this area and strategically graze cattle which eat fresh bull thistle growth before it presents its abrasive, unappetizing thistle pod. This allows native, riparian grasses and willows the opportunity to take hold and flourish. The Lozanos actively graze the pastures in a rotational cell system, which allows one week of grazing followed by seven weeks of rest and irrigation. This has increased production of the meadows while ensuring water quality along the natural-flowing, spring-fed stream that drains the fields. The Lozano’s collaborative efforts with local conservation agencies has netted several awards, such as Producer of the Year, Watershed Friendly Steward of the Year, and other accomplishments that have been the source of much pride.

The JRL Ranch raises premium black angus cattle; breeding traits that are most sought after are temperament (life is too short to have mean cattle!!), solid maternal instincts/success rates, and rich meat. All of our cattle are grass-fed, free range, and not subjected to growth hormone injections that are typical of the mainstream American cattle industry.  Due to environmental deficiencies, the cattle are provided natural mineral supplements that help ensure a healthy animal that will produce the richest grass-fed beef possible. During spring branding, the Lozano family has always worked their cattle in a quiet/gentle manner, using the benefits of a “rodear” that was most notable of the California Vaquero. This allows for quick branding and/or castrating in the pasture, thereby avoiding additional stress to the animals and eliminating the need to expose animals to muddy conditions. The cleaner environment of the spring pastures helps the calves recover quickly and results in very little, if any, risk of infection or complications. Many memorable times at the ranch are spent at the spring branding when cowboys and cowgirls get to work on their roping skills and horsemanship while enjoying time with friends and neighbors, topped off with a delicious steak dinner.  

The majority of the JRL Ranch consists of premium Pacific Northwest timber. The Lozanos have participated in an active, sustainable timber management plan since they purchased the ranch in 1983. They have selectively logged their timber stand periodically to maintain forest health and to take advantage of positive timber markets. Despite several logging operations conducted over the years, the timber stand is larger and healthier than it was in 1983.  Forest management has been rooted in achieving the three primary goals of sustainable yield, improved forest health, and improved wildlife habitat. The Lozanos were awarded the state of Oregon Small Woodlands Association stewardship award in 2015.

Bob Lozano was an avid wild game and bird hunter for most of his life. Growing up in the Santa Clara Valley, he, his brother, and his father often hunted birds and deer in the Central Valley and northeastern Nevada. Bob, Judy, and their girls often fished in the Sierra Nevada near their Lake Tahoe vacation home. When the Lozanos moved to Oregon, the fishing and hunting opportunities were plentiful and right outside their front doorstep. Butte Creek is known for trout and salmon, and the local herds of mule deer and Roosevelt elk are frequent visitors to the ranch. The ever presence of these visitors changed the Lozano’s relationship with these wildlife species and their hunting and fishing practices. The Lozanos studied the interplay between the wildlife and their landscape and learned that the ranch was healthier when wildlife was present and flourishing. In the spring, Sandhill cranes pass through and comb the fields for lizards and other small prey. The gophers help aerate the fields, which has helped maintain extremely high per-acre yields for grazing cattle. Coyotes, owls, and other raptors keep the gopher population in check and clean up dead animal remains. Snakes, raptors, coyotes, fox, mountain lions, and bobcats all help control rat and mice populations. The wild turkeys that forage in left-over winter hay spread grass seed and keep the rattlesnake population in check. Wolves are now in the Butte Falls area. The effects of the reemergence of this predator into the ecosystem is a chapter of ranch management not yet written.


2016 Marks generational transition

 

Both Mandy and Sarah were married on Horse Hill overlooking the ranch. Mandy’s wedding in 2001.

Sarah married Ryan Larson in 2004.

The Lozanos in 2013 – Sarah, Bob, Judy, and Mandy

Bob and Judy emphasized education for their girls at an early age.  Upon graduation from Butte Falls High School, both girls moved away for college – Sarah at Willamette University in Salem, Oregon and Mandy at the University of Puget Sound in Tacoma, Washington. Upon graduation, both girls moved to larger urban areas to pursue their careers.  Sarah and Mandy were strongly influenced by their familial and rural upbringing on the ranch. Mandy pursued a degree in Studio Art and Sarah a degree in Environmental Science. Sarah was later awarded a Master’s Degree in City and Regional Planning from Cornell University, and Mandy a Master’s Degree in Business Administration from the University of Virginia. These educational pursuits, coupled by hard work and perseverance, have resulted in successful corporate careers for both Sarah and Mandy outside of Oregon. Their personal lives prospered as well. In 2001, Mandy married Jake Brimlow on Horse Hill that overlooks the ranch and has the breathtaking backdrop of Mt. McLaughlin. In 2004, Sarah married Ryan Larson in the same spot. Mandy has settled in Seattle, Washington; and Sarah, Ryan, their son Blake, and their daughter Scarlett, now live in Encinitas, California. Both families have made frequent trips back to the ranch to visit their parents and all of their beloved animals and for a much-needed reprieve from their fast-paced, urban lives. 

The Lozano family faced devastating news in 2013 when Bob was diagnosed with plural mesothelioma due to exposure to asbestos.  How or where he was exposed to this hazard is still a mystery. After a hard-fought battle, Bob passed away on Thanksgiving morning 2014, three weeks before Bob and Judy’s 50th wedding anniversary. Judy, Sarah, and Mandy, and their families endured the heartbreaking experience of caring for him in his final days as he made the journey to the other side. His ashes are spread on Horse Hill, along with his many beloved dogs, cats, and horses. In May 2016, only 18 months later, Judy died peacefully in her sleep of a sudden and unexpected heart attack. Her ashes are also spread on Horse Hill. Bob and Judy’s deaths were obviously devastating to Sarah, Mandy, and their families, but they also left a huge void in the fabric of the Butte Falls Community.  In their later years, Bob and Judy dedicated countless volunteer hours toward educational counseling and scholarship programs for Butte Falls High School students, helped fight for funding to ensure that the Butte Falls Public Library remains open and well supported, and provided a strong voice for sustainable agriculture and forest management throughout southern Oregon. Their leadership and energy in these causes is still greatly missed by their extensive network of friends and neighbors. 

Mandy, Sarah, and Ryan all had demanding but very fulfilling jobs in Seattle and San Diego, respectively, so when Judy passed away unexpectedly, they were thrust into the role of ranch stewards and had many important decisions to make about what to do and how to sustainably manage the ranch without being present. Sarah and her family were able to spend a lot of time on the ranch in the summers of 2016 and 2017 to figure out a path forward.  Mandy supported this effort from Seattle. Sarah, Mandy, and their families quickly realized that diversification of ranch operation, coupled with qualified and dedicated on-site ranch management, would be the keys to a successful generational transition. The cattle operation is constantly evolving to take advantage of the many forces at play in the cattle markets. Guest house rental has also helped provide revenue to maintain ranch infrastructure upkeep costs. 

The Ensley family actively manages the ranch today, and have been instrumental in ensuring that JRL will be a healthy and productive ranch and homestead for years to come.

The Ensley Family, known for their extensive expertise in ranch management, moved to the ranch in 2017 to actively manage all aspects of the ranch operations. Supported by many friends and neighbors in the Butte Falls area, the Ensley Family’s hard work and dedication have been wonderful blessings to the Lozano and Larson Families and have made the JRL Ranch what it is today. The Ensleys bring decades of experience working and managing large ranches in the high desert of eastern Oregon, northeastern California, and Arizona and have been a wonderful source of ideas for irrigation efficiency, animal health, and pasture yield, and are constantly supporting the evolving effort to live in harmony with the land, water, and wildlife that enrich the JRL Ranch. 

The Butte Falls Community has been a steadfast supporter of the JRL Ranch, and friends and neighbors are often on the ranch or nearby to provide a lending hand, for input on hired seasonal help, and genuinely looking out for this special place. Many of Mandy and Sarah’s childhood friends continue to live in southern Oregon and often stop by for a quick visit if they are passing through. 


To be continued…

Sarah and Mandy’s families are committed to seeing the ranch remain a successful, healthy, diversified agricultural operation that will continue to be a source of pride and enjoyment for their families and extensive group of friends for years to come. The Lozanos have always prided themselves in welcoming visitors, learning from them, and sharing ideas and stories. They continue to believe that stopping to smell the spring lilac blooms and fresh cut summer hay, to feel the clean, early Fall rains, and to witness the stillness of freshly fallen winter snow are the blessings of this ranch…. experiences that are ever more difficult to find in our increasingly crowded, urbanized, and technologically-advanced world. The Lozano, Larson, and Ensley families know there will be many more stories and important life experiences shared on this land for all who are fortunate enough to visit or call this special place, home.